Put the cabbage into a medium-sized heatproof bowl. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a small saucepan over a low heat and, when hot, add the garlic and chiles. Stir-fry for 2 minutes until the garlic is fragrant, then add the soy sauce, lime juice, sugar, and 1/2 cup of water. Bring to the boil, take off the heat, and pour over the cabbage (or other greens).

Lightly press the tofu block between your hands over the sink to extract as much water as possible. Wrap the squeezed tofu in a few sheets of paper towel and press down gently to absorb the excess moisture, then cut into 1-inch cubes.

Line a plate with paper towels. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a non-stick frying pan on a medium flame, then add the tofu cubes (in batches, if need be) and leave to fry undisturbed for 4 minutes, until a crust forms. Turn the tofu and fry until golden on all sides, adding more oil if need be. Season with salt and pepper, then transfer to the lined plate.

In the same frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons of oil on a high flame, then add the green onions and fry for 6 minutes, until soft. Add the peas, beans (if using), and a scant 1/2 teaspoon of salt, stir-fry for 2 minutes, then add the watercress. Briefly cook until wilted, then turn off the heat. Cook the noodles according to the package instructions, then drain.

Divide the noodles, tofu, and vegetables between four bowls. Put a little cabbage in each bowl, then ladle as much of its pickling liquid over the top as you would like. Garnish with the smashed peanuts and herbs, then serve.